County Cork Public House
Kelley Caspari submitted this review.
Saturday evening my friend Diane and I strolled down to County Cork Public House, our local pub. Last summer we had a standing date once a week there, but with the winter weather we started watching movies with chocolate and wine instead. Cozy enough, but spring is here and we felt called to step back out and renew our former habit. So fair warning – as far as County Cork goes, I’m not impartial.
It’s as true a pub as any I’ve visited in the countryside of Britain – not the gastro-pubs mind you, but the old fashioned kind, where folks from the neighborhood come to hang out over a good beer, converse and meet neighbors. You’ll find families with kids of all ages, singles of both genders, and couples mingling at the long wooden bar and the eclectic mix of sturdy tables. There are Celtic themed murals under the skylights over the bar. Next to the dart boards hangs a very fine quilt proclaiming “County Cork” with elaborate knot-work images.
The patio out back is usually a peaceful haven, but even inside, the acoustics allow you to hear your table mates when it’s quite crowded. Along one wall are large windows that can be opened onto the magnolia lined sidewalk. There you’ll find very pleasant seating on a warm afternoon or evening. This is a place to hang out with good friends and make new ones.
The food at County Cork is modern but solid pub food. They are known for their fish and chips, but sadly, being a vegetarian, I can’t report on those. I can say that their lentil and spicy black bean burgers – both house made – are some of my favorite veggie burgers in town. I also order the Ploughman’s Platter frequently because I’m addicted to their soda bread and chutney. Diane is partial to the BLTA (bacon, lettuce, tomato and avocado) Sandwich and the Murphy’s Stew, which sports beef marinated until tender in Murphy’s Irish Stout.
The beer list is clearly carefully chosen. There are the expected bottled beers on the regular menu as well as a healthy selection on tap. The rotating taps of guest beer keep regulars coming back for more. I would like to see a wider selection of local beers simply because Oregon is a well known hotbed of micro brewing. Nonetheless, you won’t be disappointed.
On this Saturday, our waiter, Chris, managed to pull off a spiffy, casual look despite being attired in a gray argyle sweater over a button down shirt, tie and trousers topped with a jaunty pork pie hat and a mischievous, but friendly smile. He’s knowledgeable and excellent at steering patrons towards the choices that will satisfy them. I told him I was looking for local beers, and he laid out the options. Diane and I chose two Oregon made beers on tap, Rogue Ale’s Hazelnut Brown Nectar and Deschutes Brewery’s Jubel 2010, a souped up version of their seasonal Jubelale.
The Hazelnut Brown Nectar is a daytime beer, a lunchtime beer. We felt this was a beer meant to go with a sandwich, hearty enough to provide sustenance, but refreshing enough for the middle of the day. Not surprisingly, it was nutty, with a yeasty edge, and a bit malty in the finish. Its color happened to match the mahogany-colored broth in the Murphy’s Stew perfectly. If hops aren’t your thing, you should try this.
The Rogue website says this is “A nutty twist to a traditional European Brown Ale”. It’s 6.2% ABV (alcohol by volume) and available in draft or 22oz bottle.
The Jubel 2010 is Chris’s favorite on tap at the moment, and ours, as well. To pair this stout with food would be a shame. This is a beer to be paired with conversation. It has tons of flavor, so that the “Mmmmmmm!” I was thinking as I caught the sweet aroma, turned to a “Wow!” when the complex, full bodied liquid coated my palate. It tastes of coffee and bitter caramel with a touch of chocolaty bitterness at the end, leaving my tongue begging for another sip. Literally. Diane and I were sharing and I had to beg her to let me have some more. It reminded her of earthy, fresh compost, in a delicious way. I’d almost recommend chewing it.
At 10.0% ABV Jubel 2010 will reduce your inhibitions quickly, but we think it’s worth it, because, although it’s fairly pricey, this beer is for sipping thoughtfully, not quaffing. Deschutes Brewery has this to say about it on their website: “Behold something so deep crimson and swirling with spice, malt, earthy fruit and oak that it is barely tethered to the term beer.”
Yes.
Here’s the catch (there always seems to be one with something this good). It’s only available in the bottle once every 10 years. And, as if to convey the seriousness of the brew, the label on the 22oz bottle has a “Best After” date. I’m going straight 
out to buy a couple for my basement to see if they are right!
For more information visit Deschutes Brewery here, and the Rogue Brewery here.
[Updates: Sadly, County Cork Public House closed in 2018. If you’re feeling nostalgic you can visit their Facebook page. You can still get an authentic English pub experience in Portland at Horse Brass Pub. Deschutes did indeed brew another batch of Jubel, now called Super Jubel, in 2020, but good luck finding any at this late date. You can still get Jubelale annually in late fall and winter. Rogue Hazelnut Brown Nectar remains available, now on draft as well as 12-oz cans or bottles.]
